Archive for June, 2007

Alps

June 30, 2007

The river by the hostelYesterday I travelled alone again; this time to Gendelwald in the Swiss Alps.  Because Gemma and Nancy needed to take Todd’s only key to him in Amsterdam, I also had to get up at 5:30 to leave…  This meant we said goodbye until September while extremely tired.

This was also the first time I experienced the real utility of the Eurail pass.  Unlike Italy, in Switzerland, Eurail pass holders need no reservations, so I could just hop on and off trains as I pleased.  I went from Lausanne to Bern to Interlaken, stopped for an hour to walk around and admire the scenery and write in my journal, then finally continued up to Grindelwald. Read the rest of this entry »

On to Geneva

June 26, 2007

On Tuesday, Gemma and I woke up, ate breakfast, checked out, and headed off to Milan. Milan is about halfway between Florence and Geneva, our next real destination. We tried to stop at the pastry shop with connoli in the morning, but they sadly weren’t open yet.

By the time we made it to Milan, we were exhausted. Luckily, the hotel was very nice. They even gave us free internet and three beds, so I could push two of them together and have an extra large sleeping area. Read the rest of this entry »

Forgotten tidbits

June 25, 2007

In my last entry, I forgot to mention two events that happened between returning to Florence and seeing the Killers. First, Gemma and I saw a grocery store very soon after getting off the bus, so we stopped in to see if we should get dinner. Unfortunately, since we had no kitchen, we wouldn’t be able to cook anything. However, the family that ran the store had already seen us, and offered to make us fresh paninis. We couldn’t say no, because they were so nice. So, we picked out the bread, meat, cheese, and tomatoes that we wanted and they put together the largest sandwiches I have ever seen. Each one was a half a loaf of break cut in half for the top and bottom. They were so big that we had to take off the tops to eat the paninis. I ended up eating my top slice for breakfast the next day. Read the rest of this entry »

The unfinished story

June 25, 2007

Thankfully, I’m back to using an American keyboard for a little while, so hopefully this entry will have fewer typos than the last couple…

Farmhouse viewAfter Sienna, we drove another hour to a farmhouse in the country. The land in Tuscany is very pastoral and beautiful. Rolling hills, grape vines, and olive trees dominate, while the occasional hilltop farm house merely serves to complement nature (well, the cultivated nature).

Almost needless to say, the lunch was amazing. We were served fairly simple pasta with tomato sauce, but everything was so fresh that I had to get seconds. In addition, we drank a very smooth, delicious red wine, had fresh bruschetta, salomi, cheese, and enjoyed hard biscuits for dessert. Everything was wonderful. Even the company was good. Gemma and I sat near an Indian family who really wanted to know how to get their sons into MIT, a young Polish couple on their honeymoon, and a family from Australia on holiday visiting their daughter who is an exchange student in France. Read the rest of this entry »

Catching up…

June 25, 2007

Gemma!Gemma arrived a little late on Saturday; the trains were still recovering from Friday’s strike… As a result, I ended up standing in McDonald’s (no chairs) with a heavy backpack for a few hours. Needless to say, I was very happy to see her when she finally arrived.

After finding our hotel, and discovering that we had a cute little room on the fourth floor with one bed downstairs and a spiral staircase leading up to another bed, we headed out for the afternoon.

First, we went into San Lorenzo, one of many old churches in Florence. this one was actually the private church of the Medici Family during the Middle Ages. Of course, it was therefore lavishly decorated by their money and was honored by their many popes. In particular, San Lorenzo contained many sculptures by Donatello, including his last works; two pulpits showing Jesus’s descent into Hell, return to Earth, and ascention into Heaven.

By this time, it was already a little late, so we decided to get dinner. Of course, we wanted pasta. Gemma got gnocchi with artichoke and pumpkin sauce, and I got ravioli with cream and walnut sauce. Both were amazing. Even the 4 euro house red wine was superb. Read the rest of this entry »

Check Flickr

June 23, 2007

Hi guys,

Just wanted to write a note that you should check my flickr site for photos.  I don’t always have time to fully edit these posts and include everything, so there are a lot there that you may not have seen.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mdaugherty

-Mike

Merry Music

June 23, 2007

Wow! Florence is a heck of a lot of fun on a Friday night. I can’t wait until Gemma gets here, so we can go out together tomorrow.

I started by heading off to the violin concert at 8:45. Since it wasn’t until 9:15, but only a five-minute walk away, I had some time. on the way, I heard a man playing flute on a bench, and he was pretty good, so I gave him 20 eurocents (my only coin at the time). Since I was so early, I sat down nearby to listen for a while. When he was finished with the piece, he waved and came over to chat. He thanked me for the money, and told me that I would hear m ore music tonight. I said, that indeed I would, since I was on my way to a concert.

The violin concert was inside a magnificent old chapel from 1588. The acousitics definitely helped the solo violin fill the space, which isn’t to say the performance wasn’t great. Andrea Coretesi played his heart out for us tonight. One piece (I think it was Bach, but without English or a program, it was hard to tell) almost proved too much for him, and he visibly struggled on stage. I can’t say I blame him, though; Bach wrote two independent lines almost the whole way through. It sounded like at least two violins were playing.

Since by this point I was way overbudget for the day (with the train and hotel), I couldn’t go out. Still, I decided to check out Florence in preparation for Gemma’s arrival.

What I saw is that there is a band for almost every street corner in town. I saw a girl with a theravox that Gemma has to see. The therevox is an electronic instrument invented in 1919, and is played by waving your hands through the air next to two antennas. Sadly, she just finished when I arrived, so I decided to ask if she would be back tomorrow. Since she spoke only “poco” (I think “very little”) English, this was difficult. However, I am pretty sure she will be back from 9-11 on Saturday.

The last band I saw had an accordian, a drum, a string bass, and an instrument related to a hammer dulcimer. They played very upbeat jazzy arrangements and seemed to have a lot of fun doing so. After hearing 4-5, though, I decided to go to bed, and as I turned to leave, I saw the theravox girl walking the other way. She smiled and waved; I said “Ciao,” and we each went our separate ways.

More Trouble…

June 22, 2007

After the train strike this morning, I thought nothing else could go wrong… Not true.

I made it to Florence over an hour before Gemma was supposed to arrive. I decided to call her UK cell phone in case she had some trouble and to work out a meeting spot. Unfortunately, no matter what I tried, I could not get through. At this point, I decided to check my email just to be safe. Good thing, because I was confused about the date, and Gemma will arrive tomorrow… This also meant that I had no sleeping arrangements tonight.

I first looked online at a few hostel websites and couldn’t find anything that didn’t require a stay of at least two days. I decided to just suck up the difference and get a hotel room. I actually found a single room that includes breakfast for €45. Not great, but not too bad, etiher. My room is right downtown, in the Hotel Esperanza on Via del Inferno and Via del Purgatorio.

When I first got here, I opened the window and took a nap. At 3:00, I got up and started to walk around the city. I had a map, but decided to try to get lost anyway. I found a free Violin concert for tonight, the house of Dante Aligheri, a DaVinci museum with wood models of his inventions, a beautiful cathedral (Santa Maria del Fiore) made of many colors of marble, and an authentic Italian grocery store. Perhaps Gemma and I can have a picnic tomorrow.

Tonight I grabbed a bruschetta and cheese panini for €2.10 and ate out by the cathedral. There were lots of people around, and it was sunny, so I had a good time. After dinner, the church choir even came outside and sang for a while.

On a train

June 22, 2007

What a morning!  After possibly accidentally ordering permium TV in Italian last night, I got ready to go, rushed by the front desk, dropping off my key on the way, and was out the door before they could say anything.  Luckily, I had prepaid in cash, so there’s nothing they can do now.  Hahaha!

Next, I decided to go try again at the train station.  I had seen yesterday that they would be open at 6:30…  So why was everything except one small travel agency closed when I arrived at 8?  I waited half an hour to find out.  When I finally got to the front, the lady saw my Eurail pass and shouted out, “Strike today.  Everything’s closed.  Go to terminal five for information.”  Boy was I shocked.  I promised Gemma that I’d be in Florence by 12:30.

At Terminal Five, I had to queue up again.  I was starting to feel very British, so I started a conversation with the English student in line ahead of me.  He was also trying to get to Florence.  Together we scoured the train listings…  Suppresso.  Suppresso.  Suppresso.  I would have taken a picture, but my camera was buried in my bag and it was rather busy at the terminal.  Finally, we spied a 9:45 train that seemed to still be running at terminal seve.

Even though we had Eurail passes, the only way to get on this train was by buying a ticket at the self-service kiasks.  Strangely, today they did not require a Fidelity Card.  So, even though I thought it would be full from people with cancelled tickets, I was able to get on.  The first thing I did was board the wrong car.  Thinking the 2 meant second class, I grabbed a seat.  Turns out it just meant car number two.  I helped some Japanese women lift their heavy luggage to the overhead compartment, and they helped me realize I was in the wrong place.  I had to go to car 8, seat 31.

Now, here I am, travelling through the Italian countryside, about an hour from Florence.

The end of Rome

June 21, 2007

Yesterday, Irene and I had breakfast at the hostel; orange juice, tea, and lemon’cream filled croissants.  Very tasty, and actually filling.  After breakfast, though, we each went our own way.  Irene went to check out some paintings and see Ili, while I headed back to the Palatine to go on some tours.

One ticket covers entrance to both the Palatine and the Coliseum, but it does not cover a tour for either.  The tours are provided by third parties for an extra fee.  I found an English one for the Coliseum for €10.  The most interesting part for me was learning about the Coliseum in the middle ages.  We covered its use pretty extensively (at least as well as the tour) in high school Latin, but not its decay.  Two facts in particular stood out.  One, the Coliseum probably would have survived until today had people not mined it for metal in the middle ages.  Originally, there were metal rods in the rocks that helped it survive earthquakes, etc.  However, people decided that it was easier to find metal in the Coliseum than other ways, so they chipped holes in the rocks and took it.  Then, when there was a strong earthquake in the late 1400′s, the south side collapsed.  Secondly, over the years, theColiseum became host to a large number of plants that were originally found in Africa and Asia, because the seeds were brought in with the various animals used in the fights.   The high walls protected the plants from the weather, and in the 1800′s, a book was published documenting over 400 species that could be found no where else in Europe.  Of course, people then exterminated them.

After touring a bit more on my own, I grabbed some pizza for lunch.  There, I discovered that Italians don’t offer you water in a glass, they offer you water with gas, ie carbonated water, which I detest.  So, I ended up getting two bottles of water with my pizza.

Around this time, I was starting to feel extremely overheated and tired, so I started to go back to the hostel.  On the way, I stopped and did some work in an internet cafe.  In England, you just sit at a computer and pay anonymously afterwards, but in Italy, they need your ID and assign you a seat.

Eventually, I took a nap, but I slept better than expected and awoke at 7:00.  This meants taht I pretty much had to run to the panteon (not quite, but almost…) to get there by 7:30 for dinner.  Thankfully, I knew my way around by then, so I was able to get there before 7:35.  Irene and Ili met me, and we sat down for pizza.

Our waiter kept joking with and winking at Ili, so she told us that she asked to make sure that the pizza was the same as at the other restaurant with the same name, and that it would be just as good.  The waiter said yes, but that he could serve us bad pizza and we would never know.  Probably true.  In any case, Naples-style pizza is very thin and not very filling; thus, each of us ordered our own pizza.  I started to eat by cutting off a slice, like in America.  However, by observing Ili, I noticed that Italians use their knife and fork to cut small bits one at a time.  Then, they eat the crust with olive oil.  It really works well with the thin pizza.  After we’d finished eating, we were served a lemon-flavored sweet liquor; I think it was called lemoncello or some such.  Mine was very tasty without an overwhelming taste of alcohol.

On Thursday, Irene left for London, and I had to switch hostels.  Irene booked the one we were in, and I neglected to get a third night.  My first task then, was to go to Stazione Termini to find the last m inute hotel bookings.  I was able to get a single room in a hotel next to the station for only €33.

In the afternoon, I spent €8 to get a student admission to the Vatican Museum.  There, I spent at least three hours looking at paintings, statues, mummies, and the Sistine Chapel.  My favorite painting was (I think) by Donatello…  All the labels were in Italian, so it was hard to tell.  The Sistine Chapel was also amazing, but it was too crowded and too rushed.  I think I would need a year and a personal guide to appreciate all the aspects of Michaelangelo’s work.

After that, I tried to get a reservation on the 10:30 train to Florence, but was tymied by the closing ticket office and my lack of a “Fidelity Card” for the ticket booking machines.  Now, I’ve showered and gotten ready for bed, and am just writing in my journal…

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